Rogan josh is a lamb or mutton stew from Kashmir, slowly simmered in a deep red, fragrant and well-spiced sauce. Its colour comes mainly from Kashmiri chillies, which give more colour than heat.
In this article, discover the origins of rogan josh and its name, its two main traditions, the spices that define it, the key steps in making it and what to serve with it.
On this page: Origins · Two traditions · The spices · Key steps · How to serve it · 3-question quiz
Where does rogan josh come from?
Rogan josh is one of the emblematic dishes of Kashmiri cuisine, in the north of the Indian subcontinent. It is one of the dishes of the wazwan, the great Kashmiri feast served at weddings and other major occasions.
Its name is generally traced to Persian: rogan means oil or clarified butter, and josh suggests heat or intensity. The dish thus carries the mark of Persian and Mughal influences on the cooking of northern India.
Two main traditions
| Tradition | Aromatics | Distinctive features |
|---|---|---|
| Kashmiri Pandit (Hindu) | No onion or garlic; asafoetida, dried ginger, fennel | Yoghurt-based sauce, coloured by Kashmiri chilli |
| Kashmiri Muslim | With onion and garlic | Richer sauce, sometimes coloured with cockscomb flower (maval) |
Outside Kashmir, many restaurant versions add tomato and fried onion: they are closer to a northern Indian curry than to the original recipe.
The spices of rogan josh
- Kashmiri chilli: it gives the red colour without too much heat.
- Dried ginger and ground fennel: two hallmarks of Kashmiri cooking.
- Cardamom, cinnamon and cloves: used whole, they perfume the cooking oil.
- Turmeric and cumin: found in some versions.
Key steps
Without going into a recipe with quantities, here are the main steps:
- The meat: pieces of lamb shoulder or leg, on the bone if possible, for a richer sauce. Our article on mutton and lamb covers the cuts suited to slow cooking.
- Searing: the meat is browned in hot oil flavoured with whole spices.
- The yoghurt: whisked, it is added gradually while stirring, so that it does not split.
- Simmering: covered, over a low heat, until the meat is tender and the oil rises to the surface, a sign that the sauce is ready.
How to serve it
Rogan josh is served hot with basmati rice or a bread such as naan. A raita (yoghurt with vegetables or herbs) adds freshness. To place the dish within the diversity of regional cooking, read our article on Indian cuisine.
Test your knowledge
Three questions to recap the essentials. Your answers are not saved.
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